Phibsborough

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Phibsborough
Irish: Baile Phib
County Dublin

St. Peter's Church
Location
Grid reference: O055383
Location: 53°21’38"N, 6°16’22"W
Data
Post town: Dublin
Postcode: D7
Local Government
Council: Dublin
Dáil
constituency:
Dublin Central

Phibsborough is a mixed commercial and residential neighbourhood on the Northside of Dublin, in County Dublin.

The Bradogue River crosses the area in a culvert, and the Royal Canal passes through its northern reaches, notably at Cross Guns Bridge. Formerly, a branch of the canal ran to the Broadstone basin, later the site of the Midland Great Western Railway Terminus and currently the headquarters of Bus Éireann. Mountjoy Prison is located in the district.

Phibsborough is about a mile north of the old city centre and is bordered by Glasnevin to the north, Drumcondra to the east, Grangegorman and Cabra to the west and the King's Inns on Constitution Hill to the south. The busy commercial centre of Phibsborough is located around the crossroads of the Phibsborough and North Circular Road, commonly known as Doyle's Corner.[1]

Name

The name "Phibsborough" comes from the name "Phipps" or "Phibbs": this is believed to be from the Lincolnshire settler Richard Phibbs of Coote's Horse, resident in Kilmainham from the mid-17th century. The spelling being cited as 'Phippsborough' in 1792.

Churches

  • Church of Ireland: All Saints' Church
  • Roman Catholic: Church of St Peter
  • Romanian Orthodox Church (opened in 2017)[2]

History

Phibsborough, formerly Phippsborough, received its name from a Lincolnshire family who settled as landowners in the area in the mid-17th century, the first being a Richard Phipps (of Kilmainham), who died in 1629 and is buried at St James's.

The original Irish language name, Glas Mochonóg, means Monck's Green, which evolved to the variants Manogue and Minogue, and anglicised as Monck. This family held the local demesne at Grangegorman following inter-marriage with the Stanley family, becoming Stanley Monck. The Green served as playfield and parade ground was bisected by the main north road which ran from the foot of the Old Bridge of Dublin. Lying low between the stepping stone crossing of the Bradogue river (which now flows underground) is a common called the Glasminogue. Between the Broadstone and the village of Baile Phib at Monck Place, it often flooded and turned into a quagmire. This area was part of the Grangegorman estate.

The Broadstone area underwent significant urban development in the early nineteenth century in order to fulfil the commercial and residential needs of the Royal Canal Company headquarters and Harbour Terminus operation. The later onset of John S. Mulvaney's Midland Great Western Railway and the railway engineering works brought further development to North Circular Road intersection and east to Blessington Street. The natural expansion of the city saw the development move north with residential housing reaching Phibsborough, and Glasnevin, and the Phoenix Park to the northwest.

A freestanding Church of Ireland church was built in 1828, comprising a four-bay nave, two-bay chancel to east added 1856, single-bay baptistry to west elevation, and porch to south elevation added 1887, four-bay full-height north aisle added 1887, with entrance porch.

St Peter's Catholic Church and schools date from 1862. The construction of the church was controversial, resulting in a long and costly lawsuit. This dispute between the architect and builder ended in the courts and required the intervention of the Roman Catholic Archbishop of Dublin.[3]

All Saints Church of Ireland Parish Church, Phibsborough Road, was completed in 1904. The renowned Tractarian, Dr Maturin, was rector for many years, establishing a High Church tradition of worship. The interior was restored in recent years, after having suffered fire damage in 1968.

The Dublin Metropolitan Police in 1905 in Phibsborough

In 1900 a Baptist Church was built on the North Circular Road, a red-bricked building, it was sold in the 1990s and developed into offices.

At the time of the Easter Rising, the Éamon de Valera|de Valera family home was at 34, Munster Street.[4] Phibsborough has a number of memorials including one to Sean Healy, a 15-year-old member of the Fianna,[5] killed during the Rising, the other local man killed being James Kelly (18).

Broadstone Station was closed in 1937. These buildings constituted the Dublin Terminus, headquarters, and railworks of the Midland Great Western Railway and the Royal Canal Company. They now serve as the administrative centre and district bus garage for Bus Éireann[6] and Dublin Bus. The impressive nineteenth-century main building, fronted by a classical Egyptian-style facade, and a Corinthian columnar service access is currently an eyesore. It awaits redevelopment as part of a planned regeneration of the area.

The Site of The Former Flour Mills along the Royal Canal

There was a flour mill in Phibsbororough. The building is now apartments. The site was originally Mallet's Iron Mill before becoming the North City Flour Mill in the 1860s [7] The mill changed hands in 1881, purchased by the Murtagh Brothers, operating under trade name of Dublin North Milling Company. This company was taken over by Ranks [8] The mill closed in the 1983 [9]

During his early years, the author James Joyce and his family lived at No. 7, St. Peter's Road.[10]

In silence they drove along Phibsborough Road. An empty hearse trotted by, coming from the cemetery: looks relieved. Crossguns bridge: the Royal canal.

Water rushed roaring through the sluices. A man stood on his dropping barge, between clamps of turf. On the towpath by the lock a slacktethered horse.

Glasmanogue was the name of a former common along the Phibsborough Road, north of the culverted Bradogue River.[12]

About Phibsborough

The Mater Hospital

The Royal Canal passes along the northern boundary, separating Phibsborough from Glasnevin. Below the fifth lock, east of Crossguns Bridge, the Broadstone Harbour city markets-bound main branch of the canal ran south, to the now paved over the harbour. The filled-in former mainline is now covered by a linear park and the adjacent road is called the Royal Canal Bank. It consists of a variety of homes from multiple periods, some dating from the 1750s. The canal's current mainline runs south-east to Spencer Dock at the North Wall. The "parkway" passes Mountjoy Gaol, under Blacqueire Bridge, along the high banked eastern side of the Phibsborough Road. Originally the Foster Aqueduct carried the mainline canal over the Phibsborough Road to the harbour terminus which sat directly opposite the Kings Inns at Constitution Hill.[13]

Blessington Street Basin formerly used to supply water to the city, and to Jameson and Powers distilleries, is located adjacent to the Royal Canal Bank road, it was supplied with water piped along the canal and was within a public park since its opening; it remains a haven for wildlife.

A major teaching hospital, the Mater Misericordiae University Hospital', is both a local and national care centre. Adjacent are the Mater Private Hospital, and Temple Street Children's Hospital.

The National Botanic Gardens are situated in nearby Glasnevin.

Bohemian FC, Dalymount Park

Sport and leisure

Dalymount Park, home of League of Ireland team Bohemian F.C., was formerly the venue for international association football and the renowned 'Dalymount Roar' was created here.

Phibsboro Boxing Club runs a gym on Royal Canal Bank,[14]

Phibsboro Chess Club[15] meet at Clareville Community Centre, Claremont Lawns, Glasnevin, Dublin,

Music, arts, and media

The first Phibsborough community arts festival, Phizzfest, took place from 9 to 12 September 2010.[16] Writers who took part included Anne Enright and Dermot Bolger.

Two of the city's early 20th-century suburban cinemas were located relatively close to one another in Phibsborough. The Bohemian Picture Theatre (aka Palace) was a purpose-built theatre that operated from 1914 until 1974 at 154/5 Phibsborough Road. The building was demolished in the 1990s. At 376 North Circular Road (then 36 Madras Place), the Phibsborough Picture House also opened in May 1914. It underwent several enlargements of its screen and auditorium to increase capacity and access distribution, until a major re-fit and re-launch as the State cinema in 1953 meant the new building became one of the world's first cinemas specifically designed to show CinemaScope films.[17] The building was used for other purposes afterwards, eventually housing a discount carpet showroom in its largest section, which led to changes to the interior, although the exterior remains largely unchanged.[18]

The streets around the crossroads where the North Circular and Phibsborough roads intersect are the subject of important social history photographs within the Lawrence and Eason collections held at the National Photographic Archive (part of the National Library of Ireland) that have been digitised and made accessible as high resolution scans online.

Outside links

("Wikimedia Commons" has material
about Phibsborough)

References

  1. Gifford, Don; Seidman, Robert J. (1989). Ulysses annotated: notes for James Joyce's Ulysses (Edition: 2, illustrated, revised, annotated ed.). University of California Press. ISBN 978-0-520-06745-5. https://books.google.com/?id=X1fWCCHReoUC&pg=PA114&dq=dunphy%27s+phibsborough. 
  2. Romanian Orthodoxy Finds a New Home on Western Way': Cónal Thomas in The Dublin Inquirer 31 May 2017
  3. "1902 – St. Peters' Church, Phibsborough, Dublin". Archiseek.com. http://archiseek.com/2010/1902-st-peters-church-phibsborough-dublin/. 
  4. Connell, Joseph E. A. (2006). Where's where in Dublin. Dublin: Dublin City Council. pp. 89. ISBN 9780946841820. https://books.google.com/?id=uLNnAAAAMAAJ&q=%2234+munster+street%22&dq=%2234+munster+street%22. 
  5. Sean Healy Commemorative plaque
  6. Revealing Broadstone Station to public view
  7. FUSIO. "North City Flour Mills, Cross Guns Quay, CABRAGH (BA. W BY.), Dublin, Dublin City" (in en-GB). https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/50060183/north-city-flour-mills-cross-guns-quay-cabragh-ba-w-by-dublin-dublin-city. 
  8. Neary, Bernard (2016). Dublin 7. Dublin: The Lilliput Press. pp. 202, 203. ISBN 9781843516811. 
  9. "A grain of truth". https://magill.ie/archive/grain-truth. 
  10. "James Joyce From Dublin to Ithaca". Cornell University Library. 2005. http://rmc.library.cornell.edu/joyce/earlylife/index.html. 
  11. Joyce, James (2007). Ulysses. BiblioBazaar. ISBN 978-1-4346-0387-6. https://books.google.com/?id=Dq2CgT4tIlsC&pg=PA101&lpg=PA101&dq=joyce+bloom+phibsborough#PPA101,M1. 
  12. Map of Dublin 1798
  13. "The Broadstone Line of the Royal Canal". Irish waterways history. http://irishwaterwayshistory.com/abandoned-or-little-used-irish-waterways/the-broadstone-line-of-the-royal-canal/. 
  14. Phibsboro Boxing Club
  15. https://www.phibsborochessclub.com/
  16. "Welcome to Phizzfest!!". Phibsborough Community Arts Festival. 2010. http://www.phizzfest.ie. 
  17. Kevin., Rockett (2011). Film exhibition and distribution in Ireland, 1909–2010. Rockett, Emer.. Dublin: Four Courts Press. ISBN 9781846823169. OCLC 744284374. 
  18. 1948–, Keenan, Jim (2005). Dublin cinemas : a pictorial selection. Dublin: Picture House Publications. ISBN 0955068304. OCLC 61666985.