Waverley Abbey

Waverley Abbey
Surrey
The ruins of Waverley Abbey
Location
Grid reference:	SU868452
Location:	51°12’0"N, -0°45’36"W
Order:	Cistercian
History
Established:	1123
Mother house:	L'Aumône Abbey, Normandy
Founder:	William Giffard, Bishop of Winchester
Dedication:	St Mary
Disestablished:	1536
Information
Remains:	Ruins
Owned by:	English Heritage

Waverley Abbey, which is now a graceful ruin beside the River Wey in Surrey, was the first Cistercian abbey in England. It was founded in 1128 by William Giffard, Bishop of Winchester.

The abbey was built to the east of Farnham, where the bishops had a palace, and is about two miles from the town centre. The abbey is situated on a floodplain, surrounded by current and previous channels of the River Wey. It was damaged on more than one occasion by severe flooding, resulting in rebuilding in the 13th century.

Despite being the first Cistercian abbey in the kingdom, and being mother house to several other abbeys, Waverley was "slenderly endowed" and its monks are recorded as having endured poverty and famine.

The abbey was closed in 1536 by King Henry VIII as part of the Dissolution of the Monasteries. Subsequently largely demolished, its stone was reused in local buildings, including "Waverley Abbey House", which was built in 1723 in the northern portion of the former abbey precinct.

Waverley Abbey House, the ruins of the abbey and the surrounding land are all part of a conservation area. The house is a Grade II* Listed building and the ruins a Scheduled Ancient Monument.

The ruins of the abbey are currently managed by English Heritage and open to the public.

History

Waverley Abbey was founded by Bishop William Giffard on 24 November 1128. The first abbot and 12 monks were brought from L'Aumône Abbey in Normandy, France.

Giffard endowed the new abbey with all the land within the parish of Waverley, two acres of meadow at Elstead, and gave the monks permission to cut wood from his woodland at Farnham. Giffard's successor as Bishop of Winchester, Henry of Blois (younger brother of King Stephen) donated a virgate (30 acres) of land at Wandford and gave further rights at Farnham, with permission to "dig turf, heath, stone and sand". Henry's brother King Stephen granted the abbey land at Neatham, and ("at the request of his brother") freed the abbey from the military obligations usually required of feudal landlords (Frankalmoin), and excused the abbey from the payment of certain taxes including the Danegeld. The abbey was freed from further taxes (tithes) by a papal bull issued by Pope Eugenius III in 1147.

Remains of the 13th-century monks' dormitory

The abbey's endowment was added to by Adeliza of Louvain (Henry I’s Queen), who donated the grange at Northolt. Faramus (Pharamus) de Bologne sold the manor to Wanborough to the abbey for 125 marks of silver. The abbey's endowment and privileges were confirmed by charters issued by King Richard I and King John.

Despite the donations, the abbey was described as "slenderly endowed", and was recorded as having an income of only £98 1s. 8d. in the 1291 Taxation Roll. 'A History of the County of Surrey' states: "Contrasted with the vast estates of a foundation like Bermondsey, such a modest rent roll sinks into insignificance". Despite the small income, the abbey seems to have been home to a large number of monks, with 120 lay brothers and 70 religious brothers recorded in 1187.

Within the abbey's first 200 years, seven of the abbey's monks were chosen to become abbots at other monasteries. As the first Cistercian Abbey in England, it became mother house of several other Cistercian houses: including Garendon Abbey, founded in Leicestershire by Robert de Beaumont, 2nd Earl of Leicester; Forde Abbey, founded in Dorset by Richard de Brioniis; Coombe Abbey, founded in Warwickshire by Richard de Camville; and Thame Abbey, founded in Oxfordshire by Alexander, Bishop of Lincoln. Many of these became mother-houses themselves, to other Cistercian monasteries. For a time, the Abbot of Waverley Abbey claimed precedence over all the other Cistercian Abbots in England; however, this was disputed by the Abbot of Furness Abbey.

The ruins of Waverley Abbey

13th century

The 13th-century was a difficult time for the abbey. In July 1201 the abbey was flooded "and all but carried away" by a storm which caused the abbey's crops to fail. The abbey was rebuilt during the 13th-century, and much of the remains visible today date from this period. Construction on the new abbey church began in March 1203-04, financed by William, Rector of Broadwater, however the abbey's monks were struck by famine and forced to beg food from other monastic houses. Following a dispute with the pope, in 1208 King John confiscated all ecclesiastical property; however, the same year he spent "the last days of Holy Week" at Waverley Abbey, and allowed the return of its possessions to allow them to continue the reconstruction of the church. 2 years later, after the Cistercian order refused to give in to John's demands for money, John withdrew all of the abbey's privileges. Many of the monks fled the abbey and, in fear, the abbot "fled away by night". King John then issued a decree forbidding any Cistercians to enter or leave the country. In 1212 John confiscated all of the Cistercian Order's property using "false letters" which "reigned their property to him". The situation improved when John's dispute with the pope ended. The persecution of Waverley appears to have ended as in October 1214, the abbot was sent on official business on behalf of the King. The church building appears to have carried on throughout the difficult period as on 10 July 1214, fiver altars were consecrated by Albin, Bishop of Ferns. In 1225 the abbey was visited by King Henry III; he took communion at the abbey on 16 December 1225. Construction of the church was not completed, however, until 1278 (74/5 years after it began), when Nicholas de Ely, Bishop of Winchester blessed the church in honor of the Virgin Mary. The blessing was followed by a feast supposedly attended by 7,066 people; including six abbots and many knights and ladies.

The abbey's difficult century continued with further floods in 1233; up to 8 ft in height, the flood destroyed several of the abbey's bridges and property. Another flood on 28 November 1265 flooded the abbey's lower buildings forcing the monks "to take refuge in the church". In 1291 the abbey was described as in "grievous poverty" after their crops had failed.

The abbey produced the "Annals of Waverley", an important source for the period, but by the end of the thirteenth century the abbey was becoming less important.

Dissolution

The Valor Ecclesiasticus of 1535 records the abbey as having a clear annual income of £174 8s. 3½d. As such it was dissolved with the lesser (poorer) monasteries in 1536, as part of King Henry VIII's Dissolution of the Monasteries. There were only thirteen monks in the community at the time.

History after Dissolution

Waverley Abbey House: built in 1723

Following dissolution the former abbey was granted to Sir William Fitzherbert, who was the treasurer of the king's household. The abbey itself was mostly demolished, with stone reused in local building work including at Loseley Park]]. The abbey's stone was also used in the construction of Waverley Abbey House which was built within the former abbey precinct, just north of the core abbey ruins. The house was built in 1723 by Sir John Aislabie, former Chancellor of the Exchequer. It is now separated from the ruins by an artificial lake.

In the 19th-century the house was owned by George Nicholson, the uncle of Florence Nightingale. Under his ownership the house was frequently visited by Sir Walter Scott, who remembered it in the name of his 'Waverley Novels'.

Pillbox near Waverley Abbey

World Wars

During the First World War the house was the first country house to be converted into a military hospital. It treated over 5,000 soldiers.

It is claimed that part of the former abbey site formed part of the defences called the "GHQ Line", set up to protect London during the Second World War. The abbey precinct contains numerous relics formthe war, including anti-tank gun emplacements, possible auxiliary unit bases, "hideouts", pillboxes, "anti-tank pimples" and "cylinders" and anti-tank roadblocks and ditches.

Today

After the war, Waverley Abbey House became a nursing home. In 1983 it was purchased (and subsequently restored) by the Christian not-for-profit organisation, Crusade for World Revival. The house is currently used by CWR as a training and conference centre.

The ruins of the original abbey are managed by English Heritage and open to the public.

Architectural description and remains

Remains of the undercroft of the lay brothers' refectory

Waverley Abbey followed the typical arrangement of English Monasteries. The Abbey church, which was around 300 feet long, sat to the north of the monastic complex. To the south of the church was the cloister, the eastern range of which contained the chapter house and monks' dormitory. The southern range of the cloister contained the refectory and latrines. The eastern range contained the lay brothers' refectory and dormitory. The cemetery was located to the east and north of the abbey church.

The abbey's immediate precinct occupied around 50 acres, with the River Wey forming the southern and eastern boundaries. In addition to the core abbey complex, the precinct contained buildings such as the brewhouse and features such as fishponds to supply food.

The ruins

Only part of the abbey remains standing, with the ruins dating from the abbey's 13th-century reconstruction. The most substantial remains are that of the vaulted undercroft, or cellar, of the lay brother's refectory, and the walls of the monk's dormitory, which largely survive to roof height. There also survives the remains of the chapter house and traces of the north and south transepts of the abbey church.

Earthworks in the eastern portion of the abbey's precinct reveal the remains of several fishponds and a "water supply system".

The site was excavated by the Surrey Archaeological society between 1890 and 1903, and the ruins restored in 1966 when the site was under the care of the Ministry of Works.

The ruins, Waverley Abbey House and the surrounding land were all designated a conservation area in 1989. Waverley Abbey House is protected as a Grade II* Listed Building, while the abbey ruins are also a Scheduled Ancient Monument.

Waverley Abbey, painted by Harry Sutton Palmer, 1906

Use as a film set

("Wikimedia Commons" has material about Waverley Abbey used as a film set)

The abbey ruins have been used as a location in the filming of a number of films and television dramas:

• Invasion (2001, miniseries)
• 28 Days Later (2002)
• Elizabeth: The Golden Age (2007, film about Queen Elizabeth I)
• Hot Fuzz (2007)
• Animal Soup (2009, video)
• Creation (2009, film about Charles Darwin)
• Into the Woods (2014, film)
• The Huntsman (2016, film)

In popular culture

Sir Walter Scott chose the name "Waverley" for the hero of his novel Waverley, but there seems to be no direct connection with Waverley Abbey. Nevertheless, Scott was familiar with these romantic ruins from his visits.

Waverley Abbey itself was featured in Arthur Conan Doyle's classical romance, Sir Nigel. It was the scene of his winning of his war horse, Pommers, and his youthful embarrassment of the avaricious abbey authorities.

Outside links

("Wikimedia Commons" has material about Waverley Abbey)

• Waverley Abbey – English Heritage
• 19th century account of the abbey
• National Monuments Record: No. 247212 – Waverley Abbey